Walk on the Wild Side

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I have to write this one down quickly before I forget because it’s a great story for a lull in cocktail conversation……..I am sitting in Alaska’s first class section feeling like I really do belong here, and what does my husband do?........He’s half way through his chicken on ‘ciabatta’ bread with a tomato basil sauce, and he leans across the isle toward a woman of obvious distinction, who by the way ordered tomato juice when we ordered ‘bloodymarys’, and says, “excuse me, but it appears you’ve finished your sandwich…..I was wondering if I could have your hot pepper?” (Oh my God he just asked for her hot pepper)!  Her expression even startled my husband, her response – “of course”, as she lifted her plate toward him, “and would you like my husbands too?”  About then Steve realized his error in judgment, and tried to make things better by saying, “the sandwich is good but the pepper really makes it better”.  (There’s no where for me to go, words fail, I continue to inhale and exhale and find great humor in the incident, but still wishedg he’d asked the flight attendant for another pepper!)

It’s an adventure for me to fly at 35,000 feet above the earth and on a clear day, like today, devour the view of the earth below.  I’m a seasoned traveler, but I still find magic in the whole experience of flying!  This trip is only for 6 days but I’m confident there will be time to soak up the warmth of Puerto Vallarta – time to nurture my body and my soul in preparation for the holidays.  I’m already planning my return in early January! 

I’m still reeling from my two weeks in November, and time spent at the Puerto Vallarta Film Festival - just like a kid, I was so excited to find out that I knew the Director and Producer of one of the films slated to be shown.  I tested my memory when I wrote a story for the Vallarta Today about the ‘Tim Liversedge’ I remembered from nearly 30 years ago.  He was my guide on safari in Botswana, Africa, and here he was in Puerto Vallarta, scheduled to present his film – ROAR: LIONS OF THE KALAHARI.  My story, from recall, was remarkably accurate, with a few corrections – Tim left his beloved Rhodesia just prior to the uprisings, (not because of them); he moved to neighboring Botswana to become one of the first Game Wardens at Chobi National Park.  His affiliation with National Geographic started in the early 70’s. Tim’s wife, and life partner, June, came from England to explore Botswana about the same time; her spirit of adventure is still something to be admired.  Their romance has lasted the test of time and “years of wildly exciting and sometimes a bit daffy’ explorations.”  

We reclaimed our friendship after a quarter of a century, just as though time stood still.  The documentary, ‘ROAR’ took me back on safari in the Kalahari Desert……. stalking Springboks, Gazelles, Gemsbok, Buffalo, Elephants and of course the treasured sighting of Lions.  So, I was ready for a ‘walk on the wild side’ when I picked Tim and June up at the Marriott the following Saturday morning.  We took off shortly after 10AM, I drove north, over the Rio Ameca and past the boarder crossing into the State of Nayarit.  It wasn’t until we left Bucerias behind, and headed into the canopy of trees, and the two lane road heading toward Sayulita, that Tim’s eyes lit up and his seatbelt was stretched to allow him to sit on the edge of his seat - alert to the sights and smells of the ‘bush’.  He began to spot various species of butterflies, nests hanging from trees, and remarked at the similarities in the terrain to Mozambique and Zambia, places he visited as a teenager, memorable nature field trips he took out of Rhodesia to view insect habitat and search for butterflies, birds and larger game animals. 

When I pulled into Sayulita, and stopped at the new ‘Rain Tree’ restaurant and galleria, (located at the bridge entrance to town, on the left side of the road) both Tim and June remarked how they felt the setting made them feel they were back in Africa.  They viewed the outstanding art of the talented Alejandro Mondria Hieber, and appreciated the craftsmanship of the studio and restaurant.  Meeting Alejandro was an unexpected pleasure, it was apparent that one Artist always appreciates the talents and works of another – they became friends without the need for me to introduce them, although I did! 

Then we climbed the winding road to ‘Hamara’ Yoga Retreat, (I had called ahead to ask if we could walk their hillside above the Pacific Ocean), we entered the main palapa dining room, it was shades of Africa all over again, Tim and June were a bit speechless.  Here we began our ‘walk on the wild side’ - this time we were stalking butterflies, spiders, birds and nests just as though we were in Africa stalking game (very quietly, listening only to the sounds of the bush).  We later replenished fluids lost on our trek down, and back up the mountain; seated under the grand palapa with the Pacific Ocean glistening far below us, we sipped tea (a very civilized afternoon tradition in England as well as Africa) and we reminisced of years gone by. 

We completed our afternoon at Chef Roger’s ‘Manana’ Restaurant in Punta de Mita. (The road from Sayulita to Punta de Mita is now paved and can be driven in less than 20 minutes!)  Roger prepared our meal as though we were his personal guests - creations of elegance and tastefulness that my African guests will long remember.  Once again, two artists met with mutual admiration for one another – Roger Dreier, originally from Switzerland, an artist in the preparation and presentation of foods - one of the first great chefs to come to Puerto Vallarta in the early 80’s, setting a standard of excellence that others followed - and Tim Liversedge, from Botswana, Africa, recognized as one of the four outstanding Photographers and Film Makers of Wildlife in the world, soon to receive one of the three awards at the Puerto Vallarta Film Festival.  In Mexico for the first time, and stunned by the beauty of the Bahia de Banderas, the flora and fauna of the surrounding area, and the ‘hearts’ of the locals he’d met, Tim had no idea of the gourmet extravaganza he was about to enjoy.       

The final leg of our whirlwind 8 hours together ended at 6:00 PM when I delivered them back to their hotel.  That night Tim was one of the speakers at the Gala Film Festival event, and to his surprise and pleasure was awarded the Elizabeth Taylor Humanitarian Award for his documentary – ROAR: LIONS OF THE KALAHARI.  The next morning he was up early, in time to rent a motor scooter and take a ride from the Marina, toward town and through ‘El Tunel’, taking a left up the Rio Cuale for a short ‘walk on the wild side’ before flying back to Los Angeles.  Last I heard from him he and June were on their way to Lucerne, Switzerland for an IMAX showing of the film, then back to Los Angeles for two private IMAX showings before they fly back to Botswana, Africa.